Family Planning or Ethnic Cleansing in Peru?

In the 90s, hundreds of thousands of impoverished and often Indigenous Peruvian women were forcibly sterilized. Now, they seek justice.

Quechua Women and Children. Josh Walczak. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

In December of 2023, a fight that has spanned decades was dealt two major blows when former Peruvian President Alberto Fujimori was released from prison on the same day that Peru’s Supreme Court annulled an investigation into state-sponsored sterilizations. Fujimori, who oversaw the sterilization program during his presidency, had been serving time in prison after being found guilty of crimes against humanity by Interpol. Peru’s Constitutional Court authorized his release on humanitarian and health grounds less than two years after the Inter-American Court of Human Rights had overruled his pardon in 2022. Elected in 1990 during a period of great economic and political unrest in the country, Fujimori presided over an administration fraught with corruption, controversy, and human rights abuses. Most notoriously, he oversaw the Barrios Altos Massacre, for which he was charged and sentenced. 

Although their cases are the most widely publicized, political dissidents were not Fujimori’s only victims. After his re-election in 1995, the President introduced the National Reproductive Health and Family Planning Program (also known as the National Population Program) to address issues of poverty, economic instability and overpopulation. Fujimori presented the program as a feminist undertaking that would assure the reproductive rights of Peruvian women. Prior to the implementation of the program in 1996, women could only be approved for sterilization if they met a number of prerequisites, such as age or health risk factors. The National Population Program did away with the majority of those prerequisites. As a result, 272,028 women were sterilized by the government. Many of those women, however, have since come forward to say that they were subjected to the procedure against their will. 

In what has been called a genocide or ethnic cleansing, Fujimori’s administration mainly targeted women from impoverished backgrounds for sterilization, many of whom were members of Peru’s Indigenous communities. The sterilization program utilized policies developed by the Peruvian military in their Plan Verde, a military operation initially conceived as part of a coup against Fujimori’s predecessor. In one volume titled "Driving Peru into the 21st Century," the plan emphasized the convenience of sterilizing “culturally backward and economically impoverished groups.” Fujimori’s government employed unethical practices to manipulate and downright coerce women into undergoing the sterilization procedure, including by luring women to clinics under false pretenses, locking women inside the clinics, refusing essential healthcare unless they consented to the procedure, and holding the women down and injecting them with anesthesia. Doctors employed abusive language, accusing women with large families of acting like animals and of being useless. Even women who were already using other birth control methods, such as a Copper IUD, were subjected to sterilization. Many Indigenous women spoke Quechua rather than Spanish as a first language and did not understand what they were agreeing to, raising issues of informed consent.

“The Quipu Project,” developed in collaboration with MIT, is an online, interactive documentary that seeks to record and share the stories of women who were forcibly sterilized. Testimonies from Peruvian women document the suffering inflicted by the National Population Program. Many women were promised support and treatment during the recovery stage, only to be sent home immediately after the procedure, swollen, covered in rashes, with a variety of lasting medical issues. Some women, such as Celia Edith Ramos Durand, passed away from medical complications following the procedure. One woman from San Juan described the impact the operation has had on her life, saying “I don’t know if I will ever get better. I don’t believe I will ever heal … My whole body hurts. We are all in pain. Even my vagina hurts.” 

Rather than serving as a remedy to economic woes, the program National Population Program has devastated vulnerable impoverished and Indigenous communities. “Ever since I was sterilized, I haven’t been able to work as before,” one woman confessed to the Quipu hotline. “We want justice,” another says, “We have been suffering for so many years. There’s not even a doctor to check our health.”

Peru’s Supreme Court decided to annul the investigation into government-sponsored forced sterilization in December following a lawsuit filed by Fujimori’s Minister of Health, Alejandro Aguinaga, citing the statute of limitations as well as lack of evidence. This is not the first time the investigation has been impeded. For decades, the fight has been an uphill battle, as the investigation has been opened, closed and reopened many times. In 1999, various human rights groups collaborated to bring the case of Mamerita Mestanza Chavez, another woman who died following the sterilization procedure, before the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights. In 2001, the Truth and Reconciliation Commission was established to investigate human rights abuses that occurred under Fujimori’s administration. Maria Isabel Cedano, a lawyer with the nonprofit organization DEMUS, is representing over one thousand plaintiffs before the IACHR. Unfortunately, none of these efforts have yet to yield results for the victims as the Peruvian government continues to dismiss cases and throw up legal roadblocks in an incredibly complex case that encompasses issues surrounding the definitions of consent, sexual violence and genocide. It is now up to the Attorney General’s office to demonstrate that the crimes committed represent an extreme violation of human rights in order to negate the statute of limitations. 

TO GET INVOLVED

Quechua Benefit: Quechua Benefit is a nonprofit organization that aims to empower Quechua people in Peru’s highlands. It provides education, economic support and medical services.

DEMUS: DEMUS is a Peruvian Feminist Organization that focuses on protecting women’s sexual and reproductive rights. One of their campaigns, “Somos 2074 Y Muchas Mas,” seeks reparations for the victims of Peru’s forced sterilization program. 

Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

Peru’s Floating Islands

The Uros Floating Islands on Lake Titicaca are man-made reed constructions in an Indigenous Quechua community.

Nestled amidst the stunning Andes Mountains, Peru’s Lake Titicaca is home to an extraordinary wonder: the Uros Floating Islands. Inhabited by Quechua families, these islands provide a unique window into the remarkable ingenuity and rich cultural heritage of the Quechua people, who are Indigenous to the Andean region of South America. These islands also stand as a testament to the enduring preservation of the Quechua's traditional way of life in a remote corner of the world.

There are around 50 of these islands, crafted entirely from floating reeds. As you approach them, you'll be struck by the vibrant colors that adorn this grassy landscape, seemingly out of a fantasy world. Even the boats and homes here are constructed using the same totoro reeds that grow on the lake.

Maintaining these islands involves a lot of work. Every day there are chores to be done to prevent the islands and boats from getting soggy and sinking. Each Quechua family meticulously stacks layers of reeds on top of floating mud, connecting them with wooden stakes like a giant jigsaw puzzle. Each morning, the men set out on a quest to cut down the totoro reeds, which are tall, sturdy plants, while the women expertly arrange them across the floors of their floating homes.

The group of 50 islands that make up Uros form two rows and water traffic between them creates the illusion of a river, although it's all part of Lake Titicaca. Typically, one extended family group resides on each island, and if someone wishes to move, they literally cut and float their piece to a new location — an ingenious and somewhat surreal practice.

Some local Quechua people, like Victor and his family on the island of Khantati, offer a very authentic cultural experience by opening up their homes for a multiday homestay. Upon arrival, you'll be greeted warmly by local women donning intricately woven skirts and braided hair adorned with colorful pom-poms. They'll dress you in their traditional layer wool skirt and vests attire and choose a hat that signifies your status on the island. Knitted caps are for single women, while married women wear straw hats. It's a charming way to announce one's relationship status!

A tour of the island reveals the Quechua’s unique way of life. From a fully-equipped kitchen powered by solar panels to a "lounge" area with grass-made swing sets and chairs, their resourcefulness shines through. You'll also find a pond stocked with fish, separate restrooms for men and women (effectively porta-potties with holes cut through the island beneath them), and family homes. Despite their simplicity, some islands boast satellite TV and solar electricity. You might encounter a family cat or even a pet flamingo. Although the mainland with its wired electricity is within eyesight, these families still choose to continue living in the ways of their ancestors. Communication for visitors can be a challenge, as they speak an Indigenous Quechua language rooted in ancient Incan dialects and some Spanish. I found that a combination of sign language and gestures bridges the gap and also doing family portraits with my camera allowed for meaningful interactions.

Days here are filled with observing Quechua women selling their handmade woven reed crafts to passing tourists. In the evenings, you can join a Quechua "gondolier" like Victor, the patriarch of Khantati Island, for a canoe ride in traditional garb. You'll witness firsthand how they fish and harvest reeds for their island. The boats, such as the one you're rowed in on, are handcrafted by locals and last about a year and eight months before succumbing to the elements. The constant maintenance required serves as a reminder of the islanders' connection to nature.

Life here is refreshingly simple, far removed from the trappings of modern life. Their only link to the outside world is a small floating convenience store and the occasional visit from curious tourists. This centuries-old way of life serves as a reminder that simplicity can be a choice, free from the stresses of cell phones, emails and mortgage payments.

I spent two unforgettable days floating, fishing and weaving alongside these resilient people. At night, I found comfort in a grass hut, tucked beneath woven blankets with heated water bottles. Surprisingly, this remote Andean haven felt like home and I never slept better in my life.

Laura Grier

Laura is a dynamic Adventure Photographer, Photo Anthropologist, Travel Writer, and Social Impact Entrepreneur. With a remarkable journey spanning 87 countries and 7 continents, Laura's lens captures both the breathtaking landscapes and the intricate stories of the people she encounters. As a National Geographic artisan catalog photographer, Huffington Post columnist, and founder of Andeana Hats, Laura fuses her love for photography, travel, and social change, leaving an impact on the world.

A Grassroots Youth Movement Is Changing the Political Narrative in Peru

Recent political instability in Peru has resulted in violent uprisings led by the nation’s youth, who are fed up with longstanding corruption. 

Protesters Take the Streets in Lima, Peru CC BY-SA 4.0

Over the past few months Peru’s political system, and especially its President Dina Boluarte, have come under the scrutiny of protestors demanding fair and just elections. A country that ranks 101 out of 180 on the 2022 Corruption Perceptions Index, Peru is categorized as one of the nations with the most public sector corruption. Facing regional criticism with polarization, impeachment threats, and violent manifestations across the country, Peru’s current turmoil is opening a path towards a new Peruvian identity for young citizens who wish to set their nation on a different course. Seeking democracy and transparency, a group of Peruvian students are increasing awareness of structural changes that they feel must take place in their country.

Former Peruvian President Pedro Castillo was arrested in January 2023 after an attempted coup from above, resulting in the ascension of the then Vice President Dina Boluarte to head of state. Many citizens, however, especially those outside of the capital Lima, felt that this was an attack on their freedom because there was no democratic input in the transition. Throughout the pandemic Peru suffered an economic downturn that reduced access to basic services, especially for health care and education. Triggered by the political unrest, civilians have since taken to the street in violent anti-government protests, demanding that their nation allow transparent elections and eliminate elite privilege.

Demonstrations at Plaza Manco Capac following the Ayacucho massacre CC BY-SA 4.0

Peru’s youth  have been key to these protests, taking a stand and raising their voices to demand what they view as a better future free of corruption with access to quality basic services. Creating their own slogan, #TheyMessedWithTheWrongGeneration, Peru’s younger population warns authorities that they will not rest, and plan on continuing the fight for an end to systematic dishonesty and fraud. Considered a grassroots movement, the non-partisan group is gaining momentum as even some among the older generations feel that the current government no longer represents them and that their country deserves better. One activist in the movement, a 33-year-old publicist named Diego Cruz, gave the following statement to reporters at a march, “It’s not just one generation marching here, it’s everyone, because we feel outraged that [congress] is carving up the country.” 

The youth movement also demands university reform, adherents arguing that access to college is not possible for everyone, especially those that live in rural communities far from the cities. Politicians and traditional political analysts mistook the youth’s dissatisfaction of the old ways for political apathy, a supposition which has now proven woefully false. Members hope that their movement can pave the way to a better, more transparent Peru.  It remains to be seen whether they will achieve this.

Kimberly Hidalgo Hernandez

Having obtained a MA in International Policy, Kimberly seeks to bridge the gap between global development and government legislation. Growing up between the United States and Spain, she believes that travel is the best way to discover yourself and understand the world. Her goal is to promote a deeper awareness of the effects of climate change in society and politics.

The Inca’s Sacred Site of Machu Picchu 

Machu Picchu has turned into one of the most visited sites in South America. It’s deep history and architecture draw enthusiasts in. 

Located in the Andes Mountains of Peru, Machu Picchu is believed to have been a royal estate or a sacred religious site. It sits at 7,970 feet above sea level overlooking the Urubamba river and covers 80,000 acres. It’s been estimated to have been built and inhabited in the mid 14th to mid 15th century by the Incas. This archeological site is one of the few well-preserved remnants of the Inca civilization. 

The Incas were very skilled builders; they constructed Machu Picchu using a technique called “Ashlar.” This involves cutting stone so precisely that mortar, a material often used to bind stones together, was unnecessary. Not only did they not use mortar, but  they did all of it without the help of metal to cut the stones. With no record of wheels being used, the stones were likely pushed up the steep mountains by strong men over the years. Built on land frequented by seismic activity, the site has been able to stay intact despite being built atop two fault lines. The stones are called “dancing stones” as they do not break but rather move in rhythm to the earth’s motion when an earthquake occurs. Thus, demonstrating the Incas were intentional when building Machu Picchu. 

Archeologists have identified different sections of the site, making up Machu Picchu: a residential neighborhood, a royal district, a sacred area, and a farming zone. It is believed that the inhabitants harvested potatoes, coca leaves and corn. However, the most appreciated of the three was corn. It was seen as a symbol of power and a sacred state crop. The Inca people grew their food between mountain peaks due to freezing temperatures and uneven terrain. Agriculture terraces were efficient and built as steps into the slopes of the mountain. 

Discovered in July 1911, Machu Picchu was found by Yale graduate and American explorer Hiram Bingham III. Bingham was in search of  Vilcabamba, a secret stronghold mountain used against Spanish rule. However, after many failed attempts at locating it, he arrived in Cusco. He was met by Melchor Arteaga, a Quechua-speaking resident who led Bingham to the ruins of Machu Picchu, which were hidden under vines. The following year, Bingham returned to lead in the excavation of the ruins. While excavating, he was sure that Machu Picchu was Vilcabamba. Still, it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that this theory was disputed.

Historians estimate that the population in Machu Picchu was about 1,000-1,200 Inca people. The Incas are believed to have only inhabited the historic site from 1438-1471 and abandoned it a century later due to the Spanish conquest. While escaping to safer locations, the people destroyed any trails and evidence that connected Machu Picchu to the Inca Empire. The site was left untouched for centuries until Bingham discovered it again in 1911 in the dense jungle of Peru.

Machu Picchu is Peru’s most visited attraction and one of the most well-preserved examples of Inca architecture. It has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983 and one of the Seven Wonders of the World in 2007. The adept engineering of the Incas can be seen throughout Machu Picchu and continues to bring in visitors from around the world.

Jenn is a Communications Studies graduate based in Los Angeles. She grew up  traveling with her dad and that is where her love for travel stems from.  You can find her serving the community at her church, Fearless LA or  planning her next trip overseas. She hopes to be involved in  international humanitarian work one day.

PERU: The Roof of America

There are two spectacular mountain ranges in Peru, the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Huayhuash. The vast majority of people who travel to Peru, go to see Machu Picchu. Around 1% of travelers visit the Blanca and Huayhuash each year. These mountains have snow all year but the snow level is very high because the mountains are close to the equator. Most people who trek in these ranges will use guiding companies that provide donkeys and horses to carry the equipment and supplies. Even though one does not need to carry much, the trekking in these ranges at altitude is a lot of work.
 

The Huayhuash mountains are very steep and difficult to climb. Siula Grande, made famous by the book and film Touching the Void, is in this small but amazing range. Most who travel to Huayhuash do a long trek around the mountains. The trek is mostly above 4,000 meters (13,123 feet) the entire time and climbs many high passes including a 5,000m (16,404 feet). pass or two. As I recall there was a pass or two every day of the trek. There are beautiful lakes on both sides of the mountains.
 

In the Cordillera Blanca there are many more mountains and there are many that are much more reasonable for climbing than in Huayhuash. The most famous mountain here is Alpamayo. There is also a long trek, the Cedros Alpamayo Trek, that roughly circles Alpamayo. It is a long trek although the altitude is not quite as high as the Huayhuash trek. There is also a shorter trek called Santa Cruz that offers an opportunity to see the base camp of Alpamayo.
 

These are truly spectacular, and serious mountains. You would need to head to the Himalaya or the Karakoram to see bigger mountains. I’m sure Alaska is amazing as well. These mountains in Peru, however, are fairly easy to reach compared to these other ranges once you are in the country. Another advantage is that these mountains are close to the Equator and are therefore usually not too cold, which makes climbing a much more pleasant experience.

Trekking and climbing in the high mountains of Northern Peru, a rarely visited region, the beauty and scale of the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Huayhuash ranges from the sublime to the overwhelming.
 

 

THIS ARTICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON MAPTIA. 

 

ERIC HODGES

Eric Hodges is a photographer for Maptia. He is from Corte Madera, California.

Fight Volunteer’s Guilt

There is a feeling that all volunteers can relate to: post-volunteering guilt. It’s that feeling of returning home after an amazing experience working abroad, only to wonder “did I do enough?”. Did you spend enough time with the kids you were teaching? Build enough homes? Vaccinate enough dogs? Play enough games of soccer? The list can go on and on.

My husband, John, and I are experts at realizing this guilt. We have worked abroad in three different countries.; Teaching English, providing childcare, building houses…you name it. We met while both teaching in Lima, Peru for an organization called Tarpuy Sonqo. (tarpuysonqo.org – check it out if you’re heading to South America). He worked for six months building three houses, and developing a full curriculum for the 4th grade students. I spent the following two months continuing his teaching work. Our hearts were completely invested in our efforts, and of course we fell in love with every baby, kid and adult that we met along the way. (Another feeling that every volunteer can understand.)

When we returned stateside and started dating, our conversations were consumed with when we could return back to our classrooms in Pachecutec, the largest slum outside of Lima. We worried how our students were doing, if the projects we’d started were continuing, and if the volunteers we’d trained were maintaining our high standards. But with full-time jobs, eventually buying a house and adopting dogs, it was becoming unrealistic to return to Lima for more than a week or two. That wasn’t long enough to make the impact we had in mind.

Instead – we decided to take the business we were already running, and use it as a tool to provide continued support to the causes close to our heart. My travel photography company – Kristen Emma Photography – quickly developed into a forever-fundraiser for international charities. Our new motto became “Capture the world to help the world”.  We decided to give 25% of our sales back to charities local to where each of my photos were taken. Anything from South America was given back to Tarpuy Sonqo – and other photos donated to a select charity based on their continental location. Within a few months of art shows we were supporting teachers in Peru, dog adoptions in the UK (dogstrust.org.uk), prenatal medicine for women in India (villageclinic.org), AIDS research and meds in South Africa (aids.org.za), even penguin conservation through the Pew Charitable Trusts and my recent trip to Antarctica.

Not only were we thrilled to be helping our Peruvian students – but our clients were amazed! With the rise of charity companies, and the one-for-one model, people are always looking for products that give back to various causes. Adding the charitable aspect to our business model was good for the charities – but also good for our bottom line. That certainly wasn’t our goal, but it helped put food in our dogs’ mouths. :)

The lesson learned is that volunteers can use their guilt as motivation to keep helping. It’s not always possible to physically get back to their area of choice – but they can instead work to find methods of help in their everyday lives. Of course, not everyone has a business that they can use like we did – but there are other approaches to helping:

·      Getting married? Set up a gofundme page for a charity, rather than asking for gifts. (John and I raised over $5000 for Tarpuy Sonqo. It built an entire park in the slums where we taught, and a jungle gym in a 2nd location. Exchange rates are always your friend. :)

·      Birthday? Have your friends bring a non-perishable good instead of a present for you, and then donate it to the local food shelf. (You don’t really need another pair of earrings anyway.)

·      Clean out your basement, sell what you don’t need on craigslist, and commit some of the proceeds to your volunteer location. (Those college books you’ve been holding onto could fund new books for your students in Kenya).

·      Have friends who are looking to travel? Put them in touch with your volunteer coordinator. A lot of organizations will trade housing and food in exchange for a few hours of work per day. My company of choice is New Zealand-based International Volunteer HQ. They’ve got volunteer placements all around the world, and their credibility makes sure volunteers stay safe while having an incredible experience.  Check them out at ivhq.org. They charge some fees, but its always cheaper than a hotel!

·      Volunteer locally! There are an abundance of opportunities to help in your own neighborhood. If you speak another language, you can teach ELL classes at your community center. Any work you found abroad can definitely translate to your own community – teaching, childcare, food shelves, and homeless shelters.

In the short seven months since we developed our charitable mission, we’ve raised over $1500 for our partner charities. Although it may not sound like much, it’s $1500 more than they had before. We could have easily NOT raised any money, but what good would that do? Its important to remember that even just $10 raised is helpful to any of the thousands of organizations around the world.

 

 

KRISTEN MACAULEY

Kristen is a Minnesota-based photographer, specializing in fine art travel photography. She has lived in three different countries, and traveled to all seven continents through her photography endeavors. Her goal is to use photography to show similarities between cultures, regardless of their location. In order to give back to the communities that she photographs, 25% of all sales are donated back to local charities around the world. See her work on Etsy or on her website. 

PERU: Sex Worker Runs for Congress

Angela Villon has earned a living as a sex worker for over 30 years. Now she plans to fight sex trafficking and violence against women and girls by running for congress in Peru's upcoming elections.

Angela Villon has earned a living as a sex worker for over 30 years. Now she plans to fight sex trafficking and violence against women and girls by running for congress in Peru's upcoming elections.